The secret ingredient in America’s culinary capitals? Its people
Lower East Side gems and bars of Boston were low on pretence and high on personality. Plus, southern soul, Jewish delis and, of course, apple
Lower East Side gems and bars of Boston were low on pretence and high on personality. Plus, southern soul, Jewish delis and, of course, apple pie to celebrate America’s 250th anniversary • Sign up here for our weekly food newsletter, Feast A dark emerald puck on a white plate – our spoons disturbed its surface to break it down to its crystal components. Bright shards of green ice released their flavour as they melted on our tongues – vegetal, flowery, herbal, slightly honeyed and a lot saltier then any dessert should be.
We didn’t know what to expect when we ordered the savoury borage-and-lovage sorbet; we didn’t expect to be transported to a place of infinite green – a virgin forest, a field in spring, an alpine valley. We were in Estela (pictured top), a restaurant on the Lower East Side of Manhattan that is a favourite of ours. It is just as good as it was when we first went there, almost a decade ago. Around us, the understated room was full of achingly stylish people.
Outside on the street, two shirtless older men were playing checkers on a bench while two girls in skintight dresses did TikTok poses on a nearby stoop. Neither group seemed disturbed when a woman in a bathrobe suddenly began to shout at a garbage bag and kick it with force. We were there to promote our latest book, and had not been since before Covid, so we did not know what to expect. There is no doubt that the US is in a very strange moment in its history, and from Britain things look scary and confusing.
But we learned, yet again, that things seem different when you are up close, and that food is always the best, quickest and deepest way to connect to people. For instance, a breakfast TV presenter in Chicago secretly confessed that no one in the city really likes deep-dish pizza; instead, we were sent to a farm-to-table restaurant that served us delicious Greek-style pasta. Continue reading...
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