Fermentation, flavour and the future of food: Making sustainability delicious
At the Yondu Culinary Studio in Lower Manhattan, chef Jaume Biarnés demonstrates how to coax deep, savoury flavour from a handful of vegetables. He believes
At the Yondu Culinary Studio in Lower Manhattan, chef Jaume Biarnés demonstrates how to coax deep, savoury flavour from a handful of vegetables. He believes that the centuries-old technique of Korean fermentation holds part of the answer to one of the most pressing questions of our time: how to feed a growing global population without exhausting the planet. “Korea has the highest vegetable consumption in the world, and it's because they use fermentation to make vegetables taste delicious,” he says. “If we want people to eat more vegetables and eat more sustainably, it's got to be through pleasure and fun.” Going green without going bust For Mr. Biarnés, who used to work at the legendary El Bulli in Spain – voted the world's best restaurant five times – sustainability is not a trend but a fundamental part of being a chef and running a kitchen. In an industry where costs are high and margins are tight, any “green” initiative must make economic sense. “Sustainability is being able to secure the resources for the future so you can continue to be in operation,” explains Mr. Biarnés. “At a restaurant level, this means being economically sustainable. At a global level, as a species, it means the same thing.” Soundcloud Nevertheless, he insists that restaurants that were not built with sustainability in mind can do so if they take it one step at a time.
Food-waste control, he notes, is already embedded in sound kitchen management. The harder challenge lies in sourcing local products: busy chefs often lack the time to seek out regional suppliers, and the dominant food-distribution networks do not prioritise proximity. “That's what we have to fix to make it easy for chefs to access local products more easily and at a more competitive price.” Policy, too, has a role. He points to Europe, where many single-use items are banned or restricted, contrasting the situation with the United States, where disposable plates and cups remain ubiquitous. “Policymakers have to help businesses move away from disposable materials,” he underscores. The modern relevance of an ancient technique At the Yondu Culinary Studio, where Mr. Biarnés serves as Director, the focus is on Korean vegetable fermentation – a practice that predates refrigeration yet remains strikingly relevant in an era of climate-conscious cooking. “Fermentation is a traditional technique to preserve products,” he explains. “Pickles, sauerkraut, cheese, beer…we have fermentation all over the world. It's been used as a method of preserving food as well as a flavour-building technique.” FAO/Benjamin Rasmussen By extending shelf life, fermentation reduces waste. By intensifying taste, it makes plant-rich diets more appealing, a double benefit in a world where shifting toward vegetables is one of the most effective dietary changes individuals can make for the planet.
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