Oudh 1722, London SE1: ‘Finickety food, yes, but still a blowout feast’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants
It may be obviously Michelin-chasing, but it’s also resolutely midriff-expanding Oudh 1722 is chef Aktar Islam ’s first foray into London, following his barnstorming ascent
It may be obviously Michelin-chasing, but it’s also resolutely midriff-expanding Oudh 1722 is chef Aktar Islam ’s first foray into London, following his barnstorming ascent in Birmingham with the likes of Opheem. Brum’s love for Islam is resolutely misty-eyed, while Opheem’s 10-course tasting menu has garnered two Michelin stars. It is the ultimate special-occasion spot within a 100-mile radius, more akin to L’Enclume in vibe than its fellow two Michelin-starred Indian Gymkhana in Mayfair.
Islam, however, is not taking this snoozily. Instead, he has taken on a listed Victorian townhouse near Borough Market in south-east London and opened a restaurant that’s pretty solemn in its approach to Awadhi cooking. A laughably brief catch-up on the tradition: the Nawabi era began in 1722, thus the restaurant’s name. The cuisine was luxurious, and defined by slow, thoughtful cooking, sealed pots, aromatic spice blends and subtle notes.
Dead posh, basically. The polar opposite of fast, very spicy, grab-and-go food. 1722’s à la carte menu opens with a lamb shorba, a traditional welcome broth poured over finely chopped lamb tartare. Then spherical servings of gol guppa (you might know them by another moniker, pani puri), filled with sprouting moong shoots and tiny edible flowers, and flooded with jaljeera spiced cumin water.
It feels unregal to shove the entire thing in your mouth, but needs must. Continue reading...
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