âThe ocean has no boundariesâ: Beauty and life in a war zone
Iran closed the waterway to foreign shipping, attacking merchant vessels and cutting off around 20 per cent of the worldâs seaborne oil trade. Some 20,000
Iran closed the waterway to foreign shipping, attacking merchant vessels and cutting off around 20 per cent of the worldâs seaborne oil trade. Some 20,000 seafarers were stranded in the Persian Gulf. The UN Secretary-General called for an immediate ceasefire. Beneath all of it, the fish kept swimming. Back in the water Three Chinese divers based in the United Arab Emirates (UAE) â diving instructor Rui Li, freediver Shanshan Du and technical diver Jie Zhang â had been locked out of the water for weeks by the coastal closure. When a ceasefire allowed limited access in mid-April, they went straight back in. World Oceans Day, marked each year on 8 June, carries the theme this year of Reimagining the Relationship Between Humans and the Ocean. For these three, that reimagining is anything but abstract. âWe were actually a little worried before setting off,â says Du, who dived the narrowest stretch between the UAE and Oman on 18 April, just days after the UN welcomed Iranâs announcement that the strait would be open to commercial vessels during the ceasefire. âBut after more than two months, we all felt it was fantastic to be able to dive again. We encountered a large group of dolphins.
There was none of the war-torn atmosphere I had imagined â only peace and beauty before my eyes.â Zhang, who dived the area as recently as last week, describes coral diversity she has rarely encountered elsewhere â soft and hard corals varying with the topography, and sea turtles gathered in such numbers they evoked a nature reserve. Courtesy of Jie Zhang. Troubling signs She also noticed something more troubling. âI saw more white debris on the seabed than before,â she says, uncertain of its origin. And when she and her companions followed dolphins near the eastern side of the strait, the water around the animals was streaked with green algae, oil fumes and floating rubbish. âI recalled that when I used to chase dolphins, the water was blue. Seeing this scene with my own eyes is still very heartbreaking.â Li is careful to hold both realities at once. The strait is not the worldâs most biodiverse marine zone, he notes, but its complex topography sustains coral reefs of unusual variety â formations âas white as silver needlesâ alongside colonies âas purple as pine forestsâ â as well as seahorses, whale sharks and species rarely seen elsewhere. He describes witnessing a boat captain who, unable to dive and with no other means of communication, could reliably find a pod of dolphins that seemed to recognise him.
âWe would greet each other and then go our separate ways,â Li says. âThis place is truly magical.â ©Jie Zhang Potential catastrophe Yet he is also acutely aware of what armed conflict can do to such a place. An attack on oil storage facilities, he points out, could be catastrophic for marine life. âMany marine organisms are small and vulnerable. A single attack could be enough to wipe out some amazing species that have never been seen by humans.â Zhang frames the underwater worldâs vulnerability in blunt terms. âNo one can speak for the underwater ecosystem - fish canât speak, and neither can large animals. âWe dump all the disputes, wars and pollution on land onto the ocean, ignoring the fact that the ocean has no good self-protection capabilities and can only bear all the conflicts and damage caused by human activities.â Diving has quietly dissolved certain certainties for all three. âUnderwater, the ocean has no borders,â says Zhang. âOcean currents and schools of fish move freely. When whale sharks cruise, they follow fixed routes through different countries â they are free. Humanity should share this blue world instead of tearing it apart with disputes.â ©Jie Zhang Mother ocean Li reaches for a different metaphor â warmer, and perhaps more honest about the limits of human agency.
