Emiko Davies’ Japanese curry rice (kare raisu) – recipe
The Australian-born cook and author shares her recipe for a thick, fragrant Japanese curry – with one secret ingredient Japanese curry – kare raisu in
The Australian-born cook and author shares her recipe for a thick, fragrant Japanese curry – with one secret ingredient Japanese curry – kare raisu in Japanese – is unlike any “curry” you might know from south Asian countries. That is partly because of the nature of yoshoku (western-influenced) cuisine but also because it made a roundabout route to Japan, via the British Royal Navy during the Meiji Restoration, a period when India was under British colonial rule.
It arrived in the form of British “C&B” curry powder, so it was considered western food, not Indian. Curry became a staple in the Japanese naval and army kitchens at the turn of the century and this in turn brought curry into homes and even into school lunches. Today, it is considered a national dish. Japanese curry needed to be thick enough so that it could be easily eaten with rice, with the help of a spoon.
This can be achieved with a French-style roux base of butter, flour and liquid, or it can be thickened in a more Japanese style using a potato starchy slurry right at the end of cooking, which is my preference. Then there is the spice mix. Today, Japanese S&B curry powder is one of the best known, which contains 17 spices such as turmeric, coriander, fenugreek, cumin, cinnamon, fennel, ginger and star anise.
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