Leela Palace New Delhi review: Artistic refuge in India's city of cities

Key points

• Don't visit Delhi in December.
• At least, that was the advice I was given by well-meaning friends and colleagues as I shared plans for my two-week adventure through their homeland.
• Not because they weren't excited for me to see Humayun's Tomb and Qutb Minar, or eager to share their favourite shops in Khan Market, but because Delhi is well known for its pollution problem in winter.
• My Indian confidants just wanted me to really see what the capital of their beautiful country has to offer.
• Alas, it was too late.