How a generation of record-setting guides died in a disaster that killed a climbing legend
Purja, 43, also known as Nims, was the leading figure of the 10-member international team up Broad Peak, the world's 12th highest mountain, when the
Purja, 43, also known as Nims, was the leading figure of the 10-member international team up Broad Peak, the world's 12th highest mountain, when the avalanche struck. "Nims of course was iconic and undisputedly amongst the best of his generation," says Ben Ayers, a longtime Everest reporter for Outside Magazine. Kili Pemba Sherpa and Pur Bahadur Gurung, who were also guiding the Broad Peak expedition, were "strong climbers with a solid resume", Ayers said.
Kili Pemba, 46, had just earned the coveted mountaineering Grand Slam after completing his last of the 14 highest peaks, also known as eight-thousanders, in early July. Even before this crowning achievement, he was already among the best in the industry having been part of the Nepali team, led again by Purja, that completed the first winter ascent of K2 in January 2021.
At the time, K2, the world's second highest peak, was the only one of the eight-thousanders not yet climbed in winter. But at 8,611m, K2 is known to be steeper, more unpredictable and deadlier than Everest (8,849m). Many have described Kili Pemba as humble and deeply committed in serving his clients. Two of the 15 times he summited Everest he did so guiding double-leg amputees up the mountain.
"That was the toughest task for any guide, [Kili Pemba] did that with a lot of care," says Gyanendra Shrestha, a government official who was at Base Camp during one of these climbs.
The BriefWire