Lennox. Manchester: âA boot camp of flavoursâ â restaurant review
Youâll leave fed, challenged and gastronomically punch-drunk Nico Simeone is the Scottish-Italian chef behind the Six by Nico restaurant empire, and Lennox, in Spring Gardens
Youâll leave fed, challenged and gastronomically punch-drunk Nico Simeone is the Scottish-Italian chef behind the Six by Nico restaurant empire, and Lennox, in Spring Gardens, Manchester, is his new baby. If you are unfamiliar with Six by Nico, itâs a fever-dream version of fine dining: Simeone conjured up themes such as âThe Chippieâ, â Italian Road Trip â and â Ancient Rome â, then served six courses in homage to them.
Tokyo! Mad Hatters! Childhood! At one point, the Six empire was growing like knotweed, and by 2025 there were 17 restaurants. You had more chance of eating at a Six by Nico than finding an NHS dentist. Suffice to say, many adore the concept â overlooking its middling cooking skills â because itâs pocket-friendly, and the si course format gives a night out with friends a sense of occasion not available at Pizza Express.
Lennox, Simeone says, will be very different: Ă la carte, focused on dry-aged meat, but with the same playfulness and invention. There would be a fish finger with katsu curry and celeriac remoulade; a tempura oyster shell filled with dry-aged beef tartare and oyster emulsion; and gnocchi with deboned chicken wings and parmesan. Lennox would be personal, bespoke and absolutely unscalable.
No rollout planned, no siree. But by August 2026, there will be three of them. Hang on, what? Yes, shortly after Manchester came Glasgow, and then Edinburgh. Simeone sleeps with one eye open; I salute his indefatigability. Continue reading...
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